Things
To Do To Complete Your Garden
Consider these points in selecting your plot:
-
Locate the garden away from buildings and trees.
-
Have the garden where it is convenient to your house
and to water.
-
The garden should be well drained but not droughty.
-
Locate the garden on the best soil available -- a sandy
loam soil is best.
-
Protect the plot, whether large or small, with a good
fence.
Size And Shape
First, think small. Don't bite off more than you can
chew, or hoe. It's like starting out an exercise program by running five
miles the first day. You get tired, sore and you quit. Likewise, if you
plant a huge garden the first year, you'll curse, cuss and turn your sore
back on gardening for good. So, if you're new to gardening, start off with
a small garden. You can always expand later if you can't get enough of
those fresh, crispy vegetables. Choose a location that receives as much
sun as possible throughout the day. Northern gardeners should insist on
full sun.
Drainage
Next, examine the soil. Is it predominantly clay, sand
or a sandy loam? The latter is the best. You can distinguish a sandy loam
from the other two by giving it the squeeze test. If you can take a handful
of dirt and squeeze it in a ball then watch it crumble when you let go,
you've got a sandy loam soil type. If you're stuck with a predominantly
sandy or clay soil you can amend the soil with compost.
Vegetables will not grow well on poorly drained soil,
even though supplied with adequate fertilizer. If your soil has a lot of
clay or is poorly drained, make the beds high so they will drain quickly
and the soil will warm up in the spring. You can reduce the size of the
beds just before planting.
Note: Check
the plot after a rain to note the low areas, which should be drained or
filled in. The soil in a low area may show poor production. In some instances
you may use an area too wet for the spring garden or a fall garden.
The Garden Plan
Make a garden plan and make the plan work. A good plan
is a "must" for the beginner gardener. Your plan will include what vegetables
to plant, which varieties to select, and their locations in the garden.
Unfortunately, critters (and children) may take a
shine to your new garden. Rabbits, geese and deer can be a problem. For
the small garden, a wire mesh surround works well. This will discourage
most critters and some people. I've seen people take chicken wire and staple
it to the top of their landscaping timbers on a raised bed to keep out
geese and the like. Vandals can also attack gardens, especially in conspicuous
areas of a city, such as in a community garden.
Garden Practices
Every gardener wants to grow as many quality vegetables
as possible with the least expense. To do this you must use good garden
practices.
-
Prepare plot or rows during fall and winter for early
spring planting.
-
Use fresh seeds of recommended varieties.
-
Make double-row plantings of beets, carrots, radish,
mustard, lettuce, turnips, onions, English peas, and spinach in the spring
garden.
-
Use adequate fertilizer.
-
Side dress plants with a nitrate fertilizer when the
plants are 3 to 4 inches tall.
-
Prune and/or stake plants that require it, such as tomatoes,
pole beans, sweet pepper, and eggplant.
-
Water, mulch, and harvest regularly to keep plants producing.
-
Cultivate when grass and weeds are small.
-
Grow two or more crops of certain vegetables on the
same row at the same time.
-
Control pests.
-
Make at least two plantings of most vegetables for continuous
production.
Soil
The better the condition of your soil, the better garden
you will have! The best way is to add decomposed organic material that
is worked into the soil to improve its balance, texture and water-holding
capacity. Use aged manure, rotted leaves, peat moss, compost (the best!)
or whatever kind of organic material is available. Building good soil is
the most important task a gardener can do, and luckily there are all kinds
of materials that will work. Ask your gardening neighbors or a good local
garden center what is the best and most plentiful organic material to be
found in your area, then really stock up. Soil is broadly defined as three
types: clay, sand and loam. Most soils have some of each of these although
one type often predominates. Clay soils have small particles that hold
moisture and nutrients. They warm up and cool down slowly. Lighten heavy,
compacted and poorly drained clay soils by the addition of compost or other
organic material. Sandy soils have larger particles. They change temperature,
are light in texture, and drain water and nutrients quickly. Adding compost
to sandy soil helps it hold moisture and conserve nutrients. Loam is a
soil type containing a combination of both types of particles, as well
as plentiful decayed organic matter. It holds nutrients and moisture, yet
drains well. Although this soil occurs naturally in some areas, you will
want to mimic nature in your soil preparation by adding extra organic material
to the soil you have to make it as close to loam as possible.
Adding organic material benefits all soil types -
sandy soil will hold more water and clay soil will get more "friable" or
loose and less compacted. Organic material will break down over time, so
add it continually to your garden. Add it before you plant each new crop
as well as at the end of the season. For new beds, add 3 to 4 inches of
well-rotted material and turn it into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil, chopping
it up and working it in until the soil texture is as crumbly and even as
possible. (To make your own compost, "a gardener's gold," order our compost
making brochure or inquire about compost making workshops or information
at a good local garden center or your local Master Gardener program.)
Don't concern yourself too much with the degree of
acidity and alkalinity, or pH of your soil. Most common garden plants grow
best when the soil is just slightly acid. If your soil is too alkaline
or acidic, you can use various materials to neutralize or acidify it. Consult
a local nursery to see if there are any problems in your area's soil and
follow their advice. Packet backs will note if there are particular plants
that have specific needs. Adding compost to any soil will also improve
its chemical and mineral balance.
If your soil seems rock hard with clay or very compacted,
an excellent alternative is to build raised beds or big bottomless boxes
bordered with wood, cinder blocks, railroad ties, or other materials. This
way you can bring in some good soil to give you excellent results in a
small space. Concentrate on adding a lot of decomposed organic material
to your raised beds, even purchasing some bags of planting mix to fill
them, so you can plant right away and have good crops the first season.
Then you can work on improving a larger area for your garden over time.
If gophers or moles are a problem in your area, the raised beds can be
underwired with galvanized 1/2 inch chicken wire or hardware cloth. Just
tack the sheets of wire to the bottom of the bed boards after excavating
soil, then fill the frame back in.
Another alternative if your soil is poor, or if you
have limited sunny space, is to plant in containers. There are all kinds
to choose from; plastic or clay pots or wooden planters in many shapes
and sizes. In general get the biggest ones that are practical for you so
your plants will have plenty of root room, and because larger pots dry
out more slowly. For good sized plants like tomatoes or peppers or large
flowers, depth should be 12 to 18 inches. Smaller plants like herbs, lettuce,
and more compact flower varieties can grow in smaller pots. The most important
things to remember when gardening in containers is that the soil mix must
have a good loose texture that will hold moisture and won't pack down over
time. You can buy many good brands of premixed planting mix from your local
garden center to fill your containers. Don't use your garden or yard soil
as it will get too compacted for good root growth and the moisture won't
wet it evenly. Remember that you will be supplying all the food and water
to plants in containers since their roots aren't in the ground where they
can reach for nutrients and water in a larger area. Good moisture retention
is critical, as is good drainage, so plan to fertilize and water all container
plants very regularly.
Making The Garden Bed
Once you've decided on the size and location of your
new garden, early spring weather has arrived, and the soil is ready to
work, the first outdoor task is to prepare the garden soil. Mark out the
garden area and using a digging fork, garden spade, shovel, or a rototiller,
(convenient and fast, but not critically necessary), loosen the soil to
a depth of 12 to 18 inches. If you live in an area where your soil is very
dry, water first to make it easier to work, but make sure you don't ever
dig when the soil is too muddy. Turn over the soil 7 to 10 inches deep
and break up the clumps, removing rocks, branches and weeds. Mark out paths
so you can make "beds" where plants are to grow. As noted above, two to
three foot wide beds make ample planting areas and they are not too wide
to reach across from both sides to weed, water or harvest. Once you have
worked up your soil, walk only on your paths so you don't compact the soil
and lose the nice fluffy quality you are working to create in the planting
areas.
Fertilizing
Most vegetables are heavy feeders and require a soil
well supplied with plant food and organic matter. Do not attempt gardening
without using fertilizer. Do not use fresh manure during the growing
season because it may burn young plants. Do not use fresh leaves
except as mulch. Compost also works well as a side dressing material.
Now add a layer of 3 or 4 inches of well-rotted organic
material to the beds and turn it in until it is as crumbly and even as
possible. At the same time you can incorporate other fertilizers. Especially
in new gardens, the organic material you've added won't supply enough nitrogen
soon enough to feed your first plantings. Follow fertilizer package instructions
and work in well to the top 4 to 6 inches of soil of the bed so it will
be available to the shallow feeder roots of young seedlings. Finally, smooth
the surface of the soil with a rake to make a fine-textured seed bed. The
goal is to have finer soil on the top and coarser down below, providing
for good water percolation and drainage.
Although it may still be too chilly to plant your
warm weather crops in early spring, go ahead and prepare the soil for them
at the same time you are digging and fertilizing the other beds and getting
ready to plant your cool season varieties. This will give you a head start
and will also let some early weeds germinate which can be scraped off with
the rake when you are ready to plant. This will result in less weeds to
come up later with your summer sowings.
The three nutrients used most by your plants are
the so-called macronutrients, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium
(K). Nitrogen stimulates green leaf growth and form's proteins and chlorophyll.
Phosphorus contributes to root, flower and fruit development, as well as
disease resistance. Potassium promotes stem and root growth and the synthesis
of proteins. Well-made compost will supply most of these needs. You
can also add slow acting soil feeders such as bone meal and cottonseed
or blood meal, or use commercial granulated fertilizers in preparing the
soil for planting. Be sure to follow directions for amounts to add; more
is not necessarily better.
It will pay to use a balanced commercial fertilizer
in the rows 10 days to 14 days before planting. This type of fertilizer
(13-13-13 or 8-8-8) contains the three basic materials necessary for plant
growth -- nitrogen, phosphorous, and potash.
Use a balanced fertilizer such as 13-13-13 at the
rate of 3 to 5 pounds per 100 feet of row. Spread it over the row and mix
it 4 to 5 inches deep. The exact amount to use for each vegetable is determined
by the kind of vegetable grown. Leafy vegetables usually require more fertilizer
than pod vegetables.
Preparing The Rows
Preparation of the spring garden should start in the
fall or winter before. The first step is to clean out the plot. Remove
all grass, weeds, vines, and plant stubble. Spread the usual fall application
of barnyard manure or compost over the plot and hoe under.
How will you arrange the plants in your garden? For
many vegetables, we recommend planting in wide rows or beds. Planting beds
3 feet wide are easy to reach into from either side. Make wide enough walking
paths so you can move around the plants easily to water, weed and harvest.
Some crops, like corn and potatoes are often planted in blocks. Plant corn
in a block with at least 4 rows side by side rather than one long row because
it is pollinated by the wind rather than by flying insects. When the tassel
at the top of each plant is full of pollen, the wind must shake down showers
of it to fall on the silks emerging from each tiny ear or you won't get
well-filled out, plump ears. Sprawling plants like melons and squash are
sown in well-enriched, slightly mounded planting circles called "hills"
with about 4-6 feet of space between each hill for the vines to grow into.
If you make the rows by midwinter, the winter weather
will help in having a loose soil for early spring planting. When planting
time comes in the early spring, all that will be necessary before planting
is to "freshen up" the top of the rows for planting small seeds. If rows
are too low after the winter rains, remake them and allow time to settle
before planting.
Cultivation
The chief purpose of cultivation is to keep down weeds
and grass. Cultivate shallow and as often as needed. There is no set time
to do this job, but the best time is while the grass and weeds are small.
Seeds
Select seed varieties that do well in your area and
plant fresh seeds each year. Seeds more than one year old, bought or home-saved,
should be tested before planting. If you're unsure of the quality of your
seeds, do a germination test before using them. Place 10 to 20 seeds from
a packet between moist pieces of paper towels inside a plastic bag. Place
the bag in a warm location (70 to 90 degrees F). If more than half the
seeds germinate within a week or two then you can be assured that the seeds
are good. Buy seeds from a reliable seed dealer and get enough for at least
two plantings. Getting your seeds early will insure your getting the varieties
you want.
Now you have laid out the soil in your garden site
with delineated walking paths and planting beds that have a fine, smooth
surface. The soil is loosened down deep so the plant roots will be able
to extend easily in all directions to find nutrients, and water will percolate
down well. The top surface of the soil is very fine and flat so tiny seeds
won't fall down in between clods where they will be buried too deeply to
germinate.
Now it is time to put the seeds in the ground, or
"sow" them. You can sow seeds in rows in the beds or broadcast them in
a wide swath covering the whole bed. To sow seeds in rows, first read the
packet backs of the individual varieties to get an idea of how far apart
rows should be and how far apart seeds should be spaced in the rows. Make
shallow furrows in the soil about 1/2 inch deep and a few inches apart
using a stick or the handle of a rake or hoe. Then empty some seeds from
the packet into the palm of your hand, and closing the palm gently, turn
your hand over and let the seeds fall out slowly, using your thumb and
forefinger to direct them into the furrow. This is a little quicker than
picking up each seed and dropping it in one at a time. Never put all the
seed in your hand at once in case of accidents or mistakes.
Move slowly along the path and try to sow the seed
as thinly as possible. Don't worry if it seems like you're dropping too
many, this is a learned skill and you'll get better with practice. Then
pull in the soil from the sides of the furrow and crumble it in to cover
the seeds. Generally you should cover relative to the thickness of the
seed; tiny seeds should be covered very lightly, larger seeds more thickly.
Packet backs tell you how deep to plant seed and also tell you which seeds
should have the soil firmed over them because they need especially good
soil contact. (Beets and chard are two examples of irregularly shaped seeds
that need firm soil contact for good germination.)
With great big seeds like peas, beans and corn, you
use a different sowing method. It is easier to place them on the soil first
to space them, then poke them into the soil, filling in the poke holes
as you go by smoothing the soil in the bed with your hand to level it out.
Some packet backs recommend sowing seeds in the entire wide bed instead
of in single rows. This works very well for root vegetables such as beets
and carrots, and salad crops and greens because you can take advantage
of planting space if you don't have to leave walking paths between each
row. Also as you harvest each plant, the leaves of the ones next to it
will grow and fill in the space, shading the soil from drying by the sun.
Note: Be sure to mark each
row or bed with the name of the plant sown there and the date.
Cover freshly sown seeds with fine soil or use prepared
soil mix for a more water-retentive material. To cover seeds sown in a
bed, sprinkle the soil lightly over them about 1/4 to 1 inch deep according
to the thickness of the seed. Consult packet backs for specifics. Water
gently and carefully with a fine spray at this stage to avoid washing the
little seeds from their soil bed. Seeds need even and constant moisture
to germinate and the topmost layer of the soil bed may dry out if there
are no rains and the weather warms up in the day. Check the surface of
the bed carefully every day to see if it is evenly moist until the seeds
are all germinated and growing well; it really pays to give extra attention
to this vulnerable germination period.
In dry hot climates you will probably need to water
twice a day. It is best to sprinkle after the sun is up in the morning
and not too late in the evening to keep water from over-chilling seedlings
at night. Use a hose attachment with a fine spray or a gentle sprinkler
to irrigate seed beds. Tiny seeds that are sown close to the surface, like
carrots, are especially susceptible to germination problems if the top
inches of soil are not kept evenly moist.
You'll always start by sowing many more seeds you
actually plan to let mature. This is because not every seed germinates
even in ideal conditions, and you want extra seedlings "for insurance"
to cover inevitable and ordinary losses to inclement weather or pests like
insects, deer, birds or rodents. Also, you'll be choosing only the best
and healthiest plants to grow to harvest; this important process of selection
is called "thinning out" and is a very important part of successful gardening.
Many customers ask how to store leftover unused seeds. Most varieties will
keep easily for the next growing season provided they are kept cool and
dry. Never leave seed packets outside in the garden or in an unheated garden
shed or garage, because high humidity and dampness will ruin them. A sealed
mason jar or ziplock bag is an ideal storage container. Keep seeds in your
coolest room, or better still, in a refrigerator and plan to use them the
next season.
Times For Seed Germination In Warm Moist Soil
|
Plants |
Days |
Beans |
5 to 10 |
Beets |
7 to 10 |
Cabbage |
5 to 10 |
Carrots |
12 to 18 |
Cauliflower |
5 to 10 |
Corn |
5 to 8 |
Cucumber |
6 to 10 |
Endive |
5 to 10 |
Lettuce |
6 to 8 |
Onion |
7 to 10 |
Peas |
6 to 10 |
Parsnips |
10 to 20 |
Parsley |
15 to 21 |
Pepper |
9 to 14 |
Radish |
3 to 6 |
Spinach |
7 to 12 |
Salsify |
7 to 12 |
Tomato |
7 to 12 |
Turnip |
4 to 8 |
Plants
Seed boxes are used for growing early plants while you
wait for good weather for planting outdoors. You can start plants such
as tomato, pepper, and eggplant from seeds planted in small wooden boxes.
Grow the plants for 7 to 8 weeks in the seed box and then set them in the
open. You want to set only the healthy, strong plants.
Mulches
Are the weeds growing just as fast, or even faster,
than your vegetables in the garden? Weeds can make the vegetable garden
an unsightly place to visit and will reduce the quality and quantity of
your harvest.
Mulching is an option to routine cultivation and
hand pulling of these volunteer plants. Mulching involves covering the
soil around the vegetables so that light cannot reach the soil surface.
When done correctly, this eliminates all but the most persistent weeds.
Many different materials can be used around vegetables.
Black plastic is most effective around large and widely spaced plants,
such as squashes, tomatoes, eggplant and peppers. And these crops really
benefit from the weed control and extra warmth the black plastic provides.
However, black plastic also provides an ideal environment for slugs. During
wet growing seasons, these pests can present problems almost equal to that
caused by weeds.
Organic alternatives to plastic mulch include herbicide-free
grass clippings, weed-free straw or the white pages of the newspaper. Organic
mulches help moderate soil temperature, reduce evaporation from the soil,
and can be incorporated into the soil or placed in the compost pile at
the end of the season as a source of organic matter. Because of their soil
improving capability, organic mulches are recommended. Grass clippings
and straw can be placed around all established plants easily and quickly.
Newspaper sections must be anchored to the soil with rocks or soil to hold
it in place.
For best results, remove all weeds from the garden
prior to mulching. Thoroughly irrigate the garden prior to putting the
mulch in place or time its placement after a soaking rain. If your choice
is black plastic, cut slits in the sheeting to allow for air and water
movement into the soil. Carefully anchor the plastic to the soil prior
to planting the garden area. Grass clippings and straw will need to be
spread at least 2 inches thick to be effective. And, these mulches will
need to be replenished during the season as they decay.
Irrigation
There is no set time to water the garden. Just be sure
the leaves are dry when the sun goes down. If you row water, drip irrigate,
or flood the garden, it can be watered at any time. If you sprinkle, be
sure to turn off the water at least 2 hours before sundown. Apply at least
1 inch of water per week when it doesn't rain.
Insects
Watch for insect infestation. If things are properly
spaced in your garden, insects shouldn't be a big problem. If you do see
evidence of chewing on plants, especially things like cabbage, don't wait
to fight back. Identify the insect causing the damage and choose an insecticide
or insecticidal soap that will control that specific insect. Proper spacing,
weeding and fertilizing is a good way to prevent disease and insect infestation
without having to resort to harmful insecticides.
Crop Rotation
To reduce the likelihood of plant diseases becoming
a problem in your vegetable garden, do not grow the same crop in the same
area of your garden each year. Rotate the crops by family and not by individual
vegetable. Plant related crops (crops in the same family) in the same place
only once every three or four years. For example, follow your tomatoes
with peas or pole beans, followed by trellised cucumbers or squashes the
second year, sunflowers the third year, and then back to tomatoes, peppers,
eggplant, potato, or tomatillo.
Harvesting Vegetables
One of the major benefits of growing your own vegetables
is being able to harvest them when they're fully ripe and at their peak
of freshness. In general, the best time to harvest is in the morning just
after the foliage has dried. The plant has just had the night to recover
from heat and water stresses common during summer days. Fruits and vegetables
will be at their top quality then. Cooler temperatures in the morning also
make the job less stressful for the gardener. Once harvested, don't let
vegetables sit in the sun. Move them indoors as quickly as possible.
Know Your Vegetables
Vegetables may be classified by their resistance to
frosts and cold. By knowing this, you can tell what and when to plant for
best production. The four general groups of vegetables are hardy, half
hardy, tender, and very tender.
Vegetables in the hardy group can withstand hard
frosts and can be planted 2 to 3 weeks before the last killing frost in
the spring or as soon as the soil can be prepared. The half-hardy group
contains vegetables that can withstand light frosts. The seeds will germinate
at low temperatures. These vegetables are planted about the time of the
last killing frost.
Seeds of cool season plants can sprout or "germinate"
when the soil is still cool; you don't have to wait until the nights warm
up and they can handle some spring frosts. It is time to prepare the garden
for planting cool season crops in your area when the soil is "ready to
work". This means in early spring when the earth is no longer frozen in
northern climates, and in milder areas when heavy spring rains have subsided
and soil is no longer muddy or sodden. Crops that are best started in the
earliest spring weather are all the leafy greens and salads such as lettuce,
spinach, chard and oriental greens, and the brassica family which includes
broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kale.
Radishes, peas and turnips can be planted in cool
weather too. A few weeks later, plant root crops like carrots and beets.
All these vegetables not only germinate and grow best when the soil is
still cool, but they give the best tasting harvests if they can make their
growth before the weather gets too hot.
There are also some vegetables that can be planted
in both cool and warm seasons, such as chard and beets; you can sow them
in spring for summer harvests, then again in late summer. There are some
warm season, heat loving plants like tomatoes, eggplants and peppers that
will always need to be started from seeds in containers indoors instead
of planting the seeds outside in the garden. This is because they require
a very long growing season.
Warm Season Crops
|
Tender |
Very
Tender |
Beans
(snap) |
Beans
(lima) |
Corn
(sweet) |
Cucumbers |
New Zealand
Spinach |
Cantaloupe |
Tomatoes |
Eggplant |
|
Pepper |
|
Pumpkin |
|
Squash |
|
Sweetpotato |
|
Watermelon |
|
Okra |
Cool Season Crops
|
Hardy |
Half
hardy |
Asparagus |
Artichoke |
Brussels
sprouts |
Beets |
Broccoli |
Carrots |
Cabbage |
Cauliflower |
Chinese
Cabbage |
Celery |
Collards |
Endive |
Garlic |
Lettuce |
Kale |
Parsnip |
Kohlrabi |
Potato,
Irish |
Mustard |
Salsify |
Onion |
Swiss
Chard |
Parsley |
|
Peas
(English) |
|
Radish |
|
Rutabaga |
|
Spinach |
|
Turnips |
|
Vegetables And How To Grow Them
Asparagus variety--Mary Washington. Plant crowns
or roots in winter or early spring, setting roots 18 inches apart in 3
1/2- to 4-foot rows. Use plenty of well-composted organic matter. Open
trench in rows 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Spread roots carefully,
then fill in over each crown with 3 to 4 inches of loose, fertile soil.
Cultivation must be shallow.
Do not cut asparagus for table use the first spring,
though you may expect a light cutting the second year. Cut for 4 to 5 weeks,
then let stalks grow. After frost each fall, cut tops, remove them from
garden, and burn. Cover beds with 3 to 4 inches of barnyard manure in late
fall.
Beans, bush snap. This vegetable will produce
in 55 days. Make plantings every 10 days to 2 weeks from March to May and
one fall planting in August. Distance between rows should be 24 to 36 inches.
Plant seed in continuous row with seeds 2 inches apart in row. Cover seeds
1 inch deep. Dust for bean beetles. Do not cultivate or pick beans when
plants are wet.
Beans, pole snap. Make at least three plantings
from April to August. Space rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Drop seeds three per
hill in hills 18 inches apart or plant in continuous drill with seeds 6
to 8 inches apart.
Provide poles or wire and string for vines before
they begin to climb.
Beans, bush lima. Make a planting every 4
to 5 weeks from April to August. Plant as recommended for bush snap beans.
Beans, pole lima. Make at least two plantings
from April to mid-July. Plant, thin, and support as for pole snap bean.
Beets. Plant any time from February to April
for spring crop, in late August or September for fall crop. Rows should
be 24 to 36 inches apart. You can use double rows 10 inches apart, with
each double row 36 inches apart, if space is limited. You can also do this
with carrots, lettuce, onions, radishes, English peas, and other early
crops.
In planting beets, open a shallow drill (trench),
sow two or three seeds to each inch of row, and cover 1/2 inch deep. When
plants are 3 inches tall, thin to a spacing of 4 inches. Plants removed
can be reset if they are needed.
Cabbage. Buy healthy plants for spring planting.
Set in rows 24 to 36 inches apart, spacing plants 12 inches apart in row.
May be planted from January to April. Feed cabbage plenty of nitrogen.
Side dress with 1 pound ammonium nitrate to each 100 feet of row when plants
are well established.
Carrots. Plant spring crop from February through
April; fall crop in August, September, and early October. Sow seed, placing
four to six seeds to the inch. A few radish seeds mixed with carrots in
seed row will mark row and help carrot seedlings through ground. Thin carrots
to stand 2 inches apart.
Chard, Swiss. Plant like beets, but thin plants
to 12-inch spacing when 3 inches tall.
Collards. Sow seed in spring or fall. Thin
to 15-inch spacing. Fertilize with ammonium nitrate as for cabbage.
Corn, sweet. Do not save seed. Make at least
four plantings, beginning in March. Plant 2 to 3 weeks apart. Plant three
seeds to a hill 12 inches apart and thin to one stalk per hill. Fertilize
heavily. Do not pull suckers.
Cucumbers. Plant seed in continuous drill
with seeds 9 to 12 inches apart. Water if possible in dry weather. Pick
regularly.
Eggplant. Sow seed in seedbox or hotbed in
January or February. Set in garden after danger of frost is past, spacing
plants 18 to 24 inches
apart.
Lettuce, head. Plant in January or February
in seedbox, if necessary. Transplant or thin plants to spacing of 12 inches.
Lettuce needs rich soil.
Lettuce, leaf. Sow in January, February, March,
or April. Thin to 4-inch spacing. Make fall planting in August or September.
Mustard. Sow every 3 or 4 weeks in February,
March, and April and again in August and September. Thin plants to 1-inch
spacing. Eat plants pulled in thinning.
Okra. Plant after danger of frost is past,
sowing seed thick enough to assure a stand. Leave plants 18 inches apart.
One planting will bear until frost.
Onion. Buy plants or sets or get sets of multipliers
from your neighbors. Plant in garden in early spring, spacing onion plants
or sets 3 inches apart. Thin those to store to 6 inches apart, eating green
onions that are removed. Use rich soil for onions. Cultivate often and
shallow. Pull to store when tops die down.
Peas, English. Plant several varieties from
January to April. Sow seed 1 inch apart in double rows 12 inches apart
and place support of brush, wire, or string, between each double row.
Pepper, hot. Plant seed in January or February
in seedbox or hotbed. Set plants 2 feet apart in row after danger of frost
is past. Six to 12 plants are enough.
Peppers, sweet. Cultivate same as for hot
pepper. May need to stake large plants. Stake like tomatoes.
Potato, Irish. Plant spring crop in January,
February, and March, and fall crop in August. Cut seed pieces with two
eyes, the size of an egg or larger, and plant 6 inches deep 12 inches apart.
Use potatoes from spring crop for fall crop, sprouting seed in July under
moist sacks, straw, or soil. Plant 5 to 6 inches deep in August.
Radish. Plant 10 to 15 feet of row every 2
weeks in February, March, and April, also in September and October. Sow
seed 1/2 of an inch apart and 1/2 of an inch deep. Thin to 2 inches.
Spinach. Plant any time in winter between
October and March. Sow 1 inch deep and thin plants to 3 inches apart. Use
ammonium nitrate as side dressing when plants are 2 inches tall.
Squash. Sow two to three seed in hills 36
inches apart. Thin to one plant after the danger of frost is past.
Tomato. Sow seed in seedbox or hotbed in February
or March. Transplant to plant boxes or cold frame when 2 to 3 inches high.
Set plants in open garden after danger of frost is past. Set plants in
rows 3 to 4 feet apart with plants 18 to 36 inches apart in row. Prune
early crop to one or two stems and tie to a 5-foot stake. Do not prune
the fall crop as heavily. Sow seed in June for fall crop. Mulch tomatoes
in June.
Turnip and tendergreen. Plant February to
April and for fall garden in September. Sow seed 1/2-inch deep in rows
or broadcast over wide bed.
Watermelon. Plant seeds in April and May,
six to eight seed in hill, 6 feet apart in rows 10 feet apart. Thin plants
to two to hill.
Distance Between Plants In Row
Plants |
Inches |
Asparagus |
18 |
Beans
bush, snap |
3 to
6 |
Pole,
snap |
4 to12 |
Bush,
lima |
3 to
6 |
Pole,
lima |
4 to12 |
Beets |
2 |
Chinese
cabbage |
12 |
Cabbage |
18 |
Carrots |
2 to
3 |
Collards |
8 to
18 |
Corn |
12 |
Cucumbers |
12 to
18 |
Lettuce,
leaf |
4 to
8 |
Lettuce,
head |
12 |
Mustard |
2 |
Okra |
12 to
18 |
Onions |
3 to
4 |
Parsley |
4 to
6 |
Peas,
English |
2 |
Peas,
field |
4 to
6 |
Pepper |
24 |
Potato,
Irish |
12 |
Potato,
sweet |
12 |
Radish |
2 |
Spinach |
4 |
Squash |
36 |
Tendergreens |
2 |
Tomatoes |
18 to
36 |
Watermelon |
4 feet
to 6 feet |
Fall Gardening
Garden plots that were too wet for the spring garden
may be just right for a fall garden. The fall garden should be located
on soil that is loose, holds some moisture, and contains some organic matter
or plant food.
Fall
Planting List |
Beans,
bush snap |
Mustard |
Beans,
bush lima |
Onion
sets |
Beans,
pole snap |
Parsley |
Beans,
pole lima |
Potato,
Irish |
Broccoli |
Radish |
Carrots |
Rutabaga |
Chard,
Swiss |
Spinach |
Chinese
cabbage |
Tendergreens |
Kale |
Tomatoes |
Lettuce,
leaf |
Turnips |
Lettuce,
head |
Rape |
Tomatoes and beans will bear until frost as will okra,
pepper, and eggplant (carry-overs from the summer garden). You can have
fresh leafy vegetables from the garden until January.
Planting the Fall Garden
Moisture is most important in fall gardening. To get
a quick stand of plants during a droughty period, practice these points:
-
Cultivate the row thoroughly and open deep- seed drill,
4 to 5 inches deep.
-
Fill drill with water.
-
Sow seeds twice as thick as for spring planting.
-
Cover seeds with dry soil and do not water again until
plants are up, unless you can use some covering, such as straw, on top
of the row to prevent baking of the soil.
-
Use hoe or rake to press soil over seeds.
Useful Garden Tables
Fertilizer |
2
Cupfuls Weigh Approximately |
Superphosphate |
1 pound |
Muriate of potash |
1 pound |
Limestone |
1 1/4
pounds |
Mixed fertilizer (e.g.,13-13-13) |
1 pound |
Cottonseed meal |
3/4 pound |
Nitrate of soda |
1 3/4
pounds |
Ammonium nitrate |
3/4 pound |
Sulfate of ammonia |
3/4 pound |
One bushel of moist
manure (loose) weighs about |
30 pounds |
One bushel of leaves
or straw (packed) weighs about |
12-15
pounds |
Example:
If you want to weigh out 5 pounds of 13-13-13 fertilizer, by looking
in the label you will find 1 pint (2 cupfuls) weighs approximately 1 pound,
so you would measure out 10 level cupfuls. For 5 pounds of nitrate of soda,
you would measure out 8 cupfuls. |
The Average Life In Years For
Vegetable Seeds
Note: Some seeds are
known to survive much longer.
Vegetable |
Years |
Vegetable |
Years |
Vegetable |
Years |
Asparagus |
3 |
Collards |
3 |
Radish |
4 |
Bush Lima beans |
3 |
Eggplant |
4 |
Spinach |
3 |
Pole Lima beans |
3 |
Lettuce |
6 |
Squash (Summer) |
4 |
Snap Beans |
3 |
Mustard |
3 |
Squash (Winter) |
4 |
Beets |
4 |
Okra |
1 |
Sweet Corn |
3 |
Broccoli |
5 |
Parsley |
1 |
Swiss Chard |
4 |
Cabbage |
4 |
Onions |
1 |
Tomato |
3 |
Carrots |
3 |
Peas |
3 |
Turnip |
4 |
Cauliflower |
4 |
Peppers |
2 |
Watermelon |
5 |
Cucumber |
5 |
Pumpkin |
4 |
New Zealand Spinach |
3 |
Fresh
Vegetables Needed To Can One Quart |
Amount |
Beans, lima in pod |
4 -5 lb |
Beans, snap |
1 1/2 lb |
Beets, without tops |
2 1/2-3 lb |
Carrots, without tops |
2 1/2-3 lb |
Corn, sweet, in husks |
6-16 ears |
Okra |
1 1/2 lb |
Peas, green, in pod |
2-2 1/2 lb |
Spinach or greens |
2-3 lb |
Squash, summer |
2-2 1/2 lb |
Example:
It would take 1 1/2 to 2 pounds of green snap beans to can one quart. |
|